Worthy of the Casati loved of the macabre

Creators reappears, this winter, the style of Elsa Schiaparelli, deemed Italian designer in the 1930s for his exuberance and his pioneering. Very influenced by the surrealists, Tristan Tzara, Man Ray or Dali, she hit with his printed pull of a tie in Sham. The Coco Chanel called "the artist who made dresses", flirted happily with the absurd. She imagines a shoe-shaped hat or jacket with pockets-drawers.

All diversions of objects immediately evoke Schiaparelli. Assembly of hands that form a cape or the phone become a printed in the American Jeremy Scott. The two umbrellas or the handbag that metamorphose into hat in Alexander McQueen and Isaac Mizrahi. But the most egregious is the Nicholas Kirkwood shoes, replica's of a 1938 model. This last, an ankle lined boot with long black hair of monkeys had inspired to Elsa Schiaparelli by helpless love for Magritte where hair overflow with a pair of shoes.

Other code Schiaparelli in the collections of this winter 2009/2010: sleeves bottlenecks, very tight with spectacular games of shoulders, worthy of those that it used to seem always more fine size. At Balenciaga, in Giles, at Nina Ricci or Aquilano Rimondi, the seams are inordinate proportions cuts, with draped, with wrinkle or reinforcements. Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab reinterprets, him, one of the schemes of the famous designer to amplify the build: fur buttons placed at the birth of the sleeves.

The finest tributes to Schiap' are signed Dolce Gabbana and Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy. The first crossing all codes: Monkey fur, objects diverted as watches-necklaces, shocking pink - the favourite colour of the designer - print dress NET, a theme dear to the surrealists, exaggerated armholes, etc. Also dream that humorous.

The tribute to Ricardo Tisci is more more experimental and offbeat: the net is more worked in Sham, he took body and transforms in long garment-netted. Monkey fur, once placed on the front of a jacket, morphs, she, in a conceptual asymmetric dress. Surrealism is in vogue, Diego Della Valle, the pattern of the Tod's group who bought end of 2007 the name Schiaparelli, should have the choice to find the creator to become the artistic director of the House. Names are circulating but nothing has yet been unveiled.

Fans of the eighties, the creators remake the wardrobe of Grace Jones. All clothing would go to this black icon of 1980s disco martial face, the cut brush and voluptuous lips. James Bond's girl and Muse of Warhol. Immortalized sculptural body in equilibrium on a leg by Jean-Paul Goude. This winter, Marc Jacobs is so much fan that he made through his clone. As. Xuly Bët, he received in flesh and bone the savage to close its New York show.

Is no place for vapour chiffon garments, pastel colours and romantic details. Everything is stylized, structured, architected, bodywork to the Thierry Mugler. The spangled Gucci jacket has the shoulders at right angles, the Red Vuitton coat a stature of carrier and the smoking jacket Balmain shoulder-wings. The detail that fly The hood of the Maison Martin Margiela, exactly like Grace and his girlfriend Jerry Hall loved look in thrift stores in Los Angeles. Grace Jones was a body, a "bombesque" Anatomy. What unleashed the fantasies of the creators... They imagined hyper sexy clothes. Brilliant black leggings in Alexander Wang or half transparent goddess dresses in Versace. A body in Yves Saint Laurent leather bustier or a trench which is surrounded with nothing underneath course. A Balmain sarouel to the legs split from top to bottom almost as provocative as the micro-robes in lurex Leopard or décolletées to the navel.

The shoes are extravagant, extraordinary, made to be worn on stage and not in the street. The creators know more limits and imagine UFO, models of the third kind. Those of Prada, a cross between the sandal and boots, appear to be capped a medieval helmet leather studded surmounted of a ridge. Those of Olivier Theyskens, high black satin or rose pailletté, but heel boots, defy the laws of physics. Mad: the foot is in a vacuum, just supported on a dizzying skating. Limit drag queen.

A century later, the marquise Luisa Casati continues to inspire creators. With his eyes identified Kohl, cadaveric complexion, his red hair and red lips blood, the marquise of the beginning of the 20th century bathed in a perpetual bath of scandals. The shadow of that which was the muse of the Italian writer Gabriele D'Annunzio, and that leader was swanning with a tiger at the end of a leash and a real snake as a bracelet, plane always.

Creators are the dark, mysterious and sensual. Some think long dresses in crepe and transparent chiffon. There is step more fantasy than Salvatore Ferragamo model or that of John Galliano... Especially if it is brought to the Casati: with a toque in Panther, a black band on the eye and a hand of wax bleeding on the chest. Even more disturbing: the Capotes padded Watanabe that envelop the body, like a coffin. Worthy of the Casati loved of the macabre. Other signs of recognition of the marquise present in the winter collections: exoticism, the colour and the gloss. John Galliano - which has already have devoted an entire collection of haute couture - how much of this theatrical style. For Christian Dior, he imagines flamboyant clothes worthy of Bakst, creator of the costumes for the Ballets russes, and also performed for the Casati. The harem floating satin pants is with a precious jacket of Astrakhan rebrodé stones, transparent dress in purple chiffon with a collar of gold. "I want to be a piece of living art", proclaimed the marquise. Today, it would hysterical clothing of Alexander McQueen. More at place in balls dressed in real life!